Your One Stop Shops in Fort Covington, NY & Brushton, NY

April has finally arrived in Northern New York. For most of us in Brushton and Fort Covington, that means the snow is (mostly) gone, and the ground is finally starting to thaw out. It’s also the time of year when we start looking at our backyards and thinking, "This is the year I finally build that deck."

Building a deck is one of the best ways to add value to your home, but if the framing isn't done right, you're looking at a massive headache down the road. Up here in the North Country, our weather is brutal. We deal with deep frost, heavy snow loads, and high humidity in the summer. If you build a deck like they do down south, it simply won't last.

At Johnston's Building Materials and Smith Lumber, we see DIYers and pros alike coming in for supplies every day. We want your project to succeed, so we’ve put together this guide on the seven most common deck framing mistakes we see and exactly how to fix them before you drive the first screw.

1. Footings That Don’t Go Deep Enough

In Northern NY, the frost line is no joke. If you pour your concrete footings only 24 inches deep, the ground is going to heave during the winter and push your deck right up. This leads to cracked boards, a deck that isn't level, and eventually, structural failure where the deck meets the house.

The Fix: You need to get those footings down at least 42 to 48 inches deep. This ensures the base of your post is sitting on soil that doesn't freeze and move. Always check with your local building inspector in Fort Covington or Brushton to confirm the specific depth requirements for your exact spot. It's a lot of digging, but it's the only way to keep your deck from "walking" over time.

Deep deck footing construction with a 6x6 post and concrete pier for frost line protection.

2. Attaching the Ledger Board to Siding

The ledger board is the piece of lumber that connects your deck to your house. It carries about half the weight of the entire structure. One of the biggest mistakes we see is folks bolting that ledger board directly over their vinyl or wood siding.

Siding is flexible and compressible. If you bolt through it, you’re creating a gap where moisture can get trapped, and the bolts will eventually loosen as the siding compresses or rots.

The Fix: You must remove the siding where the ledger board will sit. The ledger needs to be fastened directly to the rim joist of your house. This creates a solid wood-to-wood connection. Once it's attached with proper structural screws or bolts, you can trim the siding back around it for a clean, professional look.

3. Forgetting the Flashing (or Doing it Wrong)

Water is the enemy of any deck. Even if you use the best pressure-treated building materials, trapped water will eventually cause rot. The most vulnerable spot is right behind that ledger board we just talked about. If water gets between the ledger and your house, it will rot your home's rim joist, and that is a multi-thousand-dollar repair.

The Fix: Use high-quality Z-flashing. This is a metal or plastic strip that tucks under your house's house-wrap and over the top of the ledger board. It directs water out and away from the house. For extra protection, we always recommend applying a layer of joist tape (a sticky bitumen or butyl tape) to the top of all your joists before you lay down your decking. It seals the wood around the screws and keeps water from seeping into the grain.

Proper installation of metal Z-flashing and joist tape for deck ledger board waterproofing.

4. Improper Joist Spacing for Composite Decking

We love composite decking for our climate because it doesn't rot or need staining every two years. However, composite boards are not as stiff as traditional wood. If you space your joists 24 inches apart like you might for a heavy 2x6 wood deck, your composite boards will feel "spongy" and might even sag or warp in the summer heat.

The Fix: For most composite brands, the standard is 16 inches on center for straight decking. If you’re planning to lay your boards at a 45-degree angle (diagonal), you usually need to tighten that up to 12 inches on center. Before you start framing, pick out your decking at our store so you know exactly what the manufacturer recommends. You can browse our outdoor living and patio options to see what fits your style.

5. Bolting Beams to the Sides of Posts

Back in the day, it was common to see "sandwich" beams: where you take two 2x10s and bolt them to the sides of a 4x4 post. The problem? All the weight of the deck is being held up by the shear strength of the bolts. Over time, those bolts can corrode or the wood can soften, and the whole beam can slip.

The Fix: The safest way to build is to have the beam rest directly on top of the post. This uses the "bearing" strength of the wood. We recommend using 6x6 posts for better stability. You can notch the top of the 6x6 so the beam sits in a "saddle," or use heavy-duty hardware post caps designed to join beams to posts. This ensures the weight of the deck is transferred directly down into the ground.

Johnston's Building Materials and Smith Lumber Logo

6. Using the Wrong Fasteners for Treated Lumber

The chemicals used in modern pressure-treated lumber (usually ACQ or copper-based) are actually quite corrosive to metal. If you use standard "bright" nails or cheap zinc screws, the chemicals in the wood will eat through the metal in just a few years. Your deck might look fine on the outside, but the "skeleton" is literally dissolving.

The Fix: Always use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. Look for screws specifically rated for "Ground Contact" or "ACQ Compatible." This applies to your joist hangers, too. If you aren't sure which box to grab, just ask one of us at the counter in Brushton or Fort Covington. We’ll make sure you get the right hardware for the job.

Galvanized deck screws and joist hangers for pressure-treated lumber framing.

7. Skipping Lateral Bracing

Have you ever been on a deck that feels "swayey" when people start walking around? That’s a lack of lateral bracing. In Northern NY, we get some pretty stiff winds, and over time, that side-to-side movement can loosen your connections and weaken the entire frame.

The Fix: If your deck is more than a couple of feet off the ground, you need diagonal bracing. This usually involves installing 2x4 or 4x4 braces at a 45-degree angle between your posts and your beams. It "triangulates" the structure and makes it feel rock solid. It only takes an extra hour of work and a few pieces of scrap lumber, but it makes a world of difference in how the deck feels when you're standing on it.

Plan Your Build with Johnston's & Smith Lumber

Building a deck is a big project, but you don't have to do it alone. Whether you're a seasoned contractor or a weekend warrior taking on your first DIY project, we’ve got your back.

We carry a full stock of pressure-treated lumber, composite decking, structural hardware, and all the tools you need to get the job done right the first time. Plus, if you're not sure how much material you need, we can help with a quote or estimate to keep your budget on track.

Stay Connected Don't forget to check out our latest news and tips for more home improvement advice. Stop by either of our locations today and let’s get that dream deck started!

  • Johnston's Building Materials – Brushton, NY
  • Smith Lumber & Johnston's Building Materials – Fort Covington, NY

We're here to help you build something that lasts through every North Country winter. See you at the yard!